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WINE: Watch New York State

by Andrew Chalk

New York State has made wine for over a hundred years. In the modern era (say, 1960 onwards) it has generally taken a back seat to California and Oregon, and likely Washington State as well. The jury isn't back yet, that could be about to change over the next few vintages. Here are four New York wines I was sent as part of a virtual tasting that are well made and good examples of their type. They don't need to be jusged in that snowflake category 'New York Wines', they can be judged against all wines.

Three are Rieslings.

Buttonwood Grove Winery 2019 Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes Region, New York State ($16)

Put this in a blind tasting against some German rieslings from The Mosel. Other than those sensitive to alcohol levels tasters might find it hard to pick out. Nose of white peach, lemon, and green apple. High acid in the mouth.

Fulkerson Winery 2020 Skin Ferment Riesling, Seneca Lake, New York State ($20)

Unusual expression of this grape. Nose of cantaloupe, lemon. Palate of cantaloupe fruit, medium plus acid and grippy, full-bodied whole.

Fulkerson Winery 2020 Tequila Barrel Aged Riesling, Seneca Lake, New York State ($20)

Citrus notes in the nose. Really bright citrus and white peach flavors in the mouth. The most mature of the white wines here. A medium-bodied wine that would pair impressively with turkey, cream soups, and white sauce pastas.

The red is a cabernet franc.

Suhru 2019 Canernet Franc, North Fork of Long Island, New York State ($30)

Ripe cherry and strawberry fruit in the nose. Forceful tannins in the mouth back these fruits, coffee, and cooking spices. Let breathe and serve with faty red meats (e.g. ribeye, strip, and other steaks).

An interesting bunch that may be most easily purchased online.




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