I, and my AI, Learn about the Highest Expression of Prosecco Wine

by Andrew Chalk

Leaders from the Consortium Conegliano Valdobbiadene, the organization that represents the region making the finest expressions of Prosecco, came to Dallas this week and gave the peole of the local wine trade a detailed update on what's going on. There followed a tasting that left attendees impressed with the quality and in awe at the innovation taking place.

I attended and took along my AI-assisted voice recorder, the same one I used at Michelin star restaurant Èter last month. It listened intensely (but did not join me for the lunch afterwwards) and wrote this summary.

Date Time: 2026-09-21 11:09:16

Location: Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, Dallas, TX USA

Instructor: Taylor Parsons

Summary

This series of lectures, presented before September 21, 2026, by a team including sommelier Taylor, Consorzio director Diego, and colleagues Julie and Marissa, offers an in-depth educational session on the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG region. The overarching goal is to reframe Prosecco from a wine perceived primarily by price and sweetness to one defined by its specific origin, artisanal practices, and diverse terroir. The sessions cover the region's history, geography, appellation hierarchy, viticulture, and production methods. Key topics include the geological formation of the steep "hogback" hills from an ancient uplifted seabed, the nine distinct soil types grouped into three stylistic zones (Southern, Central, Western), and the crucial role of human-made "cilioni" terraces in this "heroic" viticultural landscape. The lectures detail the unique characteristics of the Glera grape, such as its high acidity retention and orchard-fruit aromatics, and how its expression is driven by site-specific factors like altitude and soil. The sessions also explore the region's progressive environmental initiatives, including a ban on glyphosate and projects for water management and soil health.

A significant portion of the talks is dedicated to the diversity of production styles within the region. This includes a detailed look at the choices available within the Martinotti-Charmat method (e.g., long vs. short fermentation), as well as a growing movement of producers experimenting with alternative methods like Metodo Classico and the traditional, bottle-fermented Colfondo/Sui Lieviti. The lectures highlight key producers, from historically significant estates like Adami to a group of young, biodynamic/organic "rebels" (I Vi Belli) like Christian Zago, who use native yeasts and minimal intervention to craft terroir-expressive wines. The unique subzone of Cartizze is also examined, including its calcarenite soils, distinct microclimate, high land value (around €4 million/hectare), and evolving style toward drier expressions. A tasting of 18 wines across several flights is used to illustrate the stylistic differences between the broader wines of the "Southern Curve" and the high-tension, "vertical" wines of the western hills. The session concludes with a casual discussion touching on the hospitality industry, beverage program management, and personal anecdotes, underscoring the deep community and passion behind the region's wines.

Knowledge Points

1. Framing Prosecco: Place, Perception, and Regional Identity

• Place vs. Price and Perception: The sessions aim to close the semiotic gap between "Prosecco" as a market signifier for price/sweetness and its true identity as a place-driven, artisanal wine from Conegliano Valdobbiadene. The goal is to apply Burgundy-like rigor to discussions of its terroir and subzones, countering industry prejudices.

• "Pride and Prejudice" Theme: The title encapsulates producers' pride in their heritage and outsiders' prejudice based on mass-market DOC Prosecco. The lectures advocate judging greatness by terroir, historical continuity, and human stewardship, not just residual sugar.

• "I Vi Belli" (The Rebels): A group of mostly young, organic/biodynamic winemakers using native yeasts and alternative methods (Colfondo, Metodo Classico) who are challenging the perception of Prosecco as a homogenous, commercially styled wine. They represent a significant force for innovation and terroir expression within the region.

• Rehabilitating Glera's Reputation: Once seen as a "throwaway" variety, Glera is presented as a grape of remarkable character when meticulously farmed in its "amazing home" of steep, complex terroir.

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2. Appellations, Hierarchy, and Sub-zones

• Three Prosecco Denominations:

  • Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG: The historical heartland, focus of the session, and artisanal apex. Characterized by steep hills, hand-harvesting, and lower yields.

  • Prosecco DOC: The larger, entry-level appellation with flatter terrain, higher permitted yields, and more mechanization.

  • Asolo Prosecco: A smaller, adjacent appellation.

• DOCG Quality Pyramid:

  • 15 Communes: The foundational geographic units of the DOCG.

  • Rive (43): Legally recognized hillside designations tied to specific communes, with mandated hand-harvesting. They are neither single vineyards nor entire communes but named slopes.

  • Cartizze: A famed, 110-hectare subzone within Valdobbiadene, regarded as the "grand cru." Historically known for sweeter, celebratory styles, but a growing number of producers are making serious, dry expressions.

• Legal Styles: The DOCG includes standard tank-method sparkling wines across a spectrum of sweetness levels and the legally recognized Sui Lieviti (or Colfondo), a distinct, bottle-fermented, unfiltered style.

  

3. Geography, Geology, and Terroir

• Location and Topography: The region lies in the pre-Alpine foothills north of Venice. Its landscape is defined by extremely steep, repeating hills or "hogbacks," asymmetrical ridges formed by geological uplift and erosion. This "heroic viticulture" requires immense manual labor.

• Geological History: The area is an ancient seabed uplifted by the collision of the African and Eurasian plates. This process, combined with volcanic activity and glacial deposits, created immense soil diversity.

• Soil Diversity and Stylistic Zones: The region features nine distinct soil morphologies, which are simplified into three main stylistic zones:

  • Southern Curve (Loin): Flatter, lower-elevation area with warmer, more humid conditions and clay-heavy, lower-pH soils. Wines are broader, more powerful, and "horizontal."

  • Central Hills (Transitional): A mix of heterogeneous soils like marls, morainic deposits, and sandstones, producing wines that bridge the two extremes.

  • Western Band (Rim): Higher elevations, very steep hills, and limestone-rich, higher-pH soils. Wines are more "vertical," with intense precision, tension, and a "laser-focused" character.

• Cartizze Terroir: Features unique calcarenite soil (a marble-like limestone) and a persistent cold wind, allowing for late harvests of healthy grapes and producing complex aromatics.

• Human-Made Terroir (Cilioni): A system of 5,000 kilometers of earthen terraces stabilized with cover crops, developed due to a lack of stone. This innovation is fundamental to the region's UNESCO World Heritage status, maximizing sun exposure on steep slopes.

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4. Climate and Viticulture

• "Goldilocks" Climate: The region benefits from a rain shadow effect, cooling winds creating a high diurnal range, and humid air from the Adriatic providing rainfall. This combination is ideal for the late-ripening Glera grape and helps minimize fungal pressure.

• Grape Variety (Glera):

  • Characteristics: Thin-skinned, late-ripening, and uniquely retains high acidity even when fully ripe. Aromatics are semi-aromatic, leaning toward orchard fruits (pear, citrus). High pectin content is also a notable feature.

  • Composition: DOCG requires a minimum of 85% Glera. Artisanal producers often blend in local autochthonous grapes like Bianchetta, Verdiso, and Perera for added complexity.

• Vineyard Practices:

  • Harvesting: Hand-harvesting is mandatory for Rive wines and a practical necessity on most steep DOCG sites.

  • Yields: DOCG yields are regulated to be about one-third lower than in the DOC, and are often even lower in practice on extreme slopes.

  • Orientation: ~80% of vineyards are south-facing to maximize sun exposure. With climate change, cooler north-facing slopes are becoming more interesting.

    
    

5. Production Methods and Producer Choices

• Martinotti-Charmat Method: The standard method of secondary fermentation in a pressurized tank (autoclave). Key producer choices significantly impacting style include:

  • Yeast Selection: While selected yeasts are required for secondary fermentation, many producers (especially the "rebels") are using native yeasts for the primary fermentation.

  • Fermentation/Aging Duration: Producers align with different philosophies, such as "long primary, short Charmat" or vice-versa, which dramatically affects the final wine's texture and complexity, often more than the final sweetness level.

• Alternative Methods: A growing trend of experimentation includes:

  • Sui Lieviti / Colfondo: Bottle-fermented, undisgorged style gaining prominence.

  • Metodo Classico: Traditional method (bottle fermentation with disgorgement) used by producers like Bellenda to create complex, autolytic wines.

  • Vessel Choice: Experimental producers use concrete vats and wood in addition to the standard stainless steel.

  • Aging: Some producers, like Sebastiano Ricci, are practicing long lees aging in tank followed by extended bottle aging, challenging the notion that Prosecco is only for immediate consumption.

• Production Structure: The region is characterized by highly fragmented land ownership, with around 3,000 families and numerous small parcels. Three large producers account for about 40% of the ~100 million bottles produced annually (c. 2025), with the rest from many small growers and co-ops.

6. Sustainability and Environmental Initiatives

• Progressive Regulations: The region banned glyphosate in 2019, making it the largest wine region to do so at the time. The "Protocolo Viticolo" also heavily restricts insecticides to protect the ecosystem.

• Water and Soil Management: To combat erosion and climate change, projects include building micro-basins for water capture and a major effort to replace chemical fertilizers with organic matter (manure, compost), which improves soil health and water retention.

• Biodiversity: New vineyard development has been frozen since 2019 to preserve the region's mixed landscape of vineyards, forests, and other crops. 57% of the area is certified under the SQNPI sustainability protocol, and 70% of vineyards use organic methods for soil management.

7. Notable Producers and Regional Figures

• Traditional Leaders:

  • Adami (Franco Adami): President of the Consorzio and a historically significant producer who was among the first to use autoclaves and release single-vineyard wines.

  • Nino Franco: A large, commercially successful producer with a "maverick" spirit, respected for pushing boundaries.

• The "Rebels" and Innovators:

  • Christian Zago: Described as one of the most important winemakers in the region, practicing biodynamics on incredibly steep sites with old, field-blended vines.

  • Lantiga Quercha: A recently certified biodynamic estate exploring native yeasts and minimal intervention.

  • PDC: A certified organic producer in Cartizze focused on creating serious, dry expressions from 100-year-old vines fermented in concrete.

• Influential Elders:

  • Loris Casiposto Piane: A revered "Yoda" figure to the younger generation, known for his minimal-intervention, bottle-fermented wines made from some of the oldest vines in the appellation. He advocates for improving the DOCG from within.

• Hospitality and Industry Context: The sessions also touch on the broader beverage industry, mentioning individuals like Chris (a respected beverage expert with Landry's), vendor relations, and the importance of mentorship and knowledge sharing within the professional community.

  
  

Questions

• [Insert Question/Confusion]

  
  

Assignments

• 1. Compare a DOCG Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore with a Prosecco DOC at the same sweetness level, documenting differences in aroma, structure, and site expression.

• 2. Study the 15 communes and 43 Rive: map at least five Rive to their communes and list a producer example for each.

• 3. Research Cartizze, summarizing its historical style, current stylistic trends toward drier wines, land pricing (approx. €4M/ha), and market positioning.

• 4. Create a service training sheet reframing Prosecco sales from a sweetness-first to a place-first approach, with talking points on DOCG vs DOC, Rive, and Sui Lieviti.

• 5. Compare the winemaking philosophies and resulting wine profiles of traditional producers (e.g., Adami) versus the "rebels" (e.g., Christian Zago, Loris Casiposto Piane), focusing on yeast choice, fermentation methods (autoclave, Colfondo, Metodo Classico), and aging.

• 6. Develop a consumer-facing infographic explaining the Prosecco quality pyramid (DOC, DOCG, Rive, Cartizze) and the impact of the three main stylistic soil zones (Southern, Central, Western).

• 7. Investigate the region's climate adaptation measures, such as water management via micro-basins and soil health initiatives, and summarize their goals.

  
  

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