WINERY VISIT: THE HIDDEN POUR EXPERIENCE AT TEXAS WINE COLLECTIVE

Inside the Hidden Cellar at TWC. Password?

by Andrew Chalk

With a 250-mile journey to Fredericksburg from Dallas it is no-brainer for me to sign up for the elevated tastings to try to make the most of the journey. The latest was the Hidden Pour at the Texas Wine Collective (TWC). The TWC describes this (paraphrasing) as “...a special, reservation-only tasting experience at the Texas Wine Collective, where guests enter through a secret door for an intimate session with rare pours and stories. The speakeasy-style event is for small groups, typically 2-8 people, and is available on Fridays through Sundays.Price $55”  From my point-of-view this was a chance to try some rarer and older wines from the three wineries that make up the TWC: Brennan Vineyards, Lost Oak Winery, and McPherson Cellars. 

For my speakeasy session Brad Cummins, described on his card as a Cider Specialist, conducted the tasting and answered my questions. We got so involved we actually overran the scheduled hour run-time. 

TASTING THE WHITE WINES

First up was a selection of white wines.

Brennan Vineyards 2024 Picpoul Blanc, Texas High Plains is a vibrant and well-balanced example of that southern French grape that has adapted so well to Texas. Although this example has unmistakable peach in the palate, picpoul is not a grape, like chardonnay where the fruit notes are predominant. It is about structure, minerality, and acidity, facets that explain its compatibility with a wide variety of food. Seafood would be my choice with this wine.

Next, the McPherson Cellars 2022 Marsanne-Rousanne, Texas High Plains. Resplendent in a soft-tone style label, this is a blend of the two white grapes I like best from the northern Rhône. As you would expect with Kim McPherson, the blending is exact and achieves a Châteauneuf-du-Pape style of class and reserve. Only 224 cases were produced, with an 60% marsanne and 40% roussanne blend. This is the wine to take on your wine tour of France as a present for the French winemaker you meet.

Lost Oak Winery 2023 Viognier, Texas High Plains continued the Rhône theme in the grapes. Viognier is the most aromatic of the white Rhône varieties and often blended in both white and red wines to contribute to the nose. Its fruit flavors arc from grapefruit in just-ripe areas to rich peach in warm climates. The example, true to its High Plains origins, was towards the grapefruit

end of the flavor scale. It would be a fine accompaniment to east Asian food that did not have too much chili heat.

This was the end of the whites and it is a good point to remark how informed Brad was. He had a deep grasp, not just of the general knowledge of wine, but the specifics of each of these producers. We could have talked for ages, but had to get on to the reds.

TASTING THE RED WINES

McPherson 2022 Sangiovese, Newsom Vineyards, Sagmor Scion Wood, Texas High Plains. Sagmor Vineyard was one of the first vineyards that ‘Doc’ McPherson, Kim’s father, planted in the Texas High Plains. Brad explained that they wanted to plant part of the exact same vines in Neal Newsom’s vineyard in Yoakum County. Hence the name ‘Sagmor Scion Wood’. 

The wine is one of the best Sangiovese’s from the state that I have tasted. It even has some Tuscan character, something Sangiovese planted in the USA typically lacks. 

Lost Oak Winery 2022 Crimson Oak, Texas High Plains. A red-fruit nose and flavors characterize this red wine from a blend of: 

48% Sangiovese from Reddy Vineyards, Brownfield, TX.

48% Ruby Cabernet from Krick Hill Vineyards, Levelland, TX

4% Petite Sirah from Lost Oak Estate Vineyard, Burleson TX.

It is young right now but still pleasant to drink. Sip or serve with red meat.

Brennan Vineyards 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Newburg Vineyard, Comanche County, TX. Was exactly the right kind of full-bodied wine to end on. It has tannin that will help it age several years. Luscious, ripe dark fruit of blackberries and black plums. And some forest floor. All that was missing was some Texas wild boar to go with it.

IN SUMMARY…

The Hidden Pour is a quality experience that would cost twice as much in Napa. I recommend that you put it on your agenda for your next trip to the Texas Hill Country. Brad’s deep knowledge was a major part of that.