WINE REVIEW: Gary Farell, 2017 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, CA ($35)
by Andrew Chalk
Gary Farrell has a justifiably envied name in Sonoma County, having made totemic chardonnay and pinot noir wines for almost 40 years. Farrell is no longer associated with the eponymous winery but his values live on in the artisan-inspired, wines of place, that it produces.
The maker of this wine, Theresa Heredia, stresses how it draws from grapes from no fewer than 16 different vineyards throughout the Russian River Valley, its “rich, unctuous, golden fruit flavors” from the Rochioli Vineyard, its vibrant acidity from Pellegrini’s Olivet Lane Vineyard with its cold nights. She recommends pairing it with chicken roasted on a bed of fingerling potatoes. I sampled it with garlic butter shrimp which served just as well.
N: Tropical fruit, cream soda, pineapple;
Palate: Good phenolic backbone, medium-plus acid, ripe tropical fruit.