QUICK TAKE: BREAKFAST AT BIRDY’S BEHIND THE BOWER, NEW ORLEANS
by Andrew Chalk
There can’t be a better breakfast town in the country than NOLA. If you want to set yourself up as a breakfast place here you need to justify how you will make the cut. The patrons are used to Brennan’s and The Court of Two Sisters so they are a tough crowd. Birdy’s Behind the Bower is a breakfast/brunch café in the Lower Garden District that you might want to check out.
From a recent media event, two specialties get a giant nod. Huevos Rancheros ($17) is made with black beans, slow-simmered chicken in adobo, pico de gallo, cilantro, avocado, with two eggs any way (The Moll had them prepared over easy). Now, there are countless variations on this traditional Mexican dish so people will react differently to the beans not being refried beans, or the absence of rice. Safe is to say, lots of people will love to start their day with this recipe. Alternatively, if the traditional Eggs Benedict is more your thing, go for Debris Benedict ($21). I loved the intensity of the barbecue brisket that replaced the usual meat of (Canadian) bacon or ham. Combined with the poached eggs and hollandaise it was truly delicious. The traditional muffin was replaced with a buttermilk biscuit to good effect, and pickled red onions added a fruity, acidic, component. This dish is in the same league as the best from the big boys.
The long list of barista-made coffees make a great accompaniment and you can finish with a cinnamon roll or chocolate chip cookie.
In the Garden District and looking for breakfast? Birdy’s may be exactly what you want.