ON TEXAS WINE: Do They Age? Part 29, Hilmy 2015 Malbec, Texas (∞)

by Andrew Chalk

The preamble to part one read…

“More people are coming round to the idea that Texas can make good wine as they sample more of it. But the ultimate test of gravitas in, at least red wines, is how they age. How does Texas do in that regard?

To find out, I am doing a series of tastings of Texas wines, all 10+ years old, and assessing how they are doing. I am choosing them based on how their peers in other parts of the world do at the end of their first decade.” 

And later added

“Since this vintage is no longer available in the retail market I have helpfully indicated the price as ‘infinity’ in the title, above. ”

TASTING NOTES

We have moved forward in time to 2015 and maybe that is why this wine still has a powerful fruit component to the palate. Blueberries combine with velvet-smooth tannins, and forest floor. THe long finish is fruit-driven. The nose is more mature, having stewed fruit, cedar, cigar box, and thyme. It does not taste like an Argentinian malbec, nor a Cahors variant, so put this down as another case where there is a Texas style to the grape.  

As a general rule, Hilmy Cellars is one of the best wineries in Texas. A particular strength is actually their white wines. They are restrained and superbly balanced. When I meet some winemakers in Europe this summer, it is Hilmy white wines that I may take them.

WHAT SHOULD I DO?

Best now. Can be quaffed (I watched two episodes of the new series 4 of Clarkson’s Farm on Amazon) or with the usual panoply of red meats. I would favor roast lamb, but others may be more sheepish.