by Andrew Chalk
You read that right - Mexican Pizza! In one of the most catchy but well-executed openings of this Fall’s restaurant comeback, Nico’s MX Pizzeria and Cocktail Venue combines pizza crust with toppings crafted from the cuisine of Mexico. At a media event last week I got to check it out.
For example, Poc Chuc (a Yucatan creation) is citrus marinated pork, fried bean salsa, Mexican cheese blend (Oaxaca, Chihuahua, Asadero, Mozzarella), pickled red onion and radish, topped with fresh cilantro and salsa verde. La Pastora is Guajillo marinated pork, salsa verde, Mexican cheese blend, diced sweet pineapple, and cooked white onion garnished with red onion and fresh cilantro. These are not components tossed on top of each other. Rather, they are assemblies of parts, elaborately fitted together, sometimes welded with a suffusion of cheese and tweaked with judicious application of chilies.
Desserts come from Berries & Sweets and include an addictive churro cheesecake.
It adds up to a menu where dishes are more than the sum of their parts and where deliciousness is always in the final product. Pair it with one of Nico’s signature margarita’s such as ‘The Boujee’ made with 818 tequila, or try an adult fresca, and a good time is promised for all.
Nico’s is the result of the synergy of restaurateur Nico Ponce and Chef Juan Manny Reyes. Veterans who bring over 40 years combined experience in the restaurant trade. I got to quiz Juan during an off hour. He hails from Mexico City. Suadero (the La Chilanga pizza) is his most popular dish. When he cooks he wants to cook from scratch and he believes in slow-cooking to maximize flavor extraction. He can take you through the ingredients behind the menu and name the supplier of each one. There is more chef focus here than might meet the eye.
Although Nico’s has only been open a week, locals are already discovering it. It may be best to get their early!
