Winemaker Greg Morthole's Philosophy for a Structured, Floral Chardonnay. As Interpreted by AI

by Andrew Chalk

In June, Davis Bynum winemaker Greg Morthole talked to wine media over Zoom about aspects of his winemaking philosophy. I recorded his presentation and put part of it through AI analysis. Below is what AI came up with. Note: AI can make mistakes that butcher what someone said, so that is why it is very prominently stated that this is AI interpreting Greg, not Greg.

06-04 Winemaker's Philosophy for a Structured, Floral Chardonnay

Core Synopsis

The winemaker's core philosophy centers on achieving a balance between floral top notes and structural integrity in Chardonnay, a significant shift from previous methods. This is accomplished through a strategic blend of clones (like Spring Mountain and 809), which provide floral terpenes, and a disciplined operational process of picking earlier for higher acidity. The winemaker actively avoids the "buttery" diacetyl-heavy style by using specific yeast strains and employing sur lie aging with battonage to break down buttery compounds. A parallel exploration of native versus inoculated yeasts reveals a dialectic: native yeasts offer more glycerol and savory complexity, while inoculated yeasts deliver brighter, more predictable fruit-forward notes. Currently, the process employs a hybrid approach, using approximately 25% native yeast, but this proportion is increasing. We are committed to this multi-faceted approach because it allows for precise control over the wine's profile, aiming for a structured, acid-driven Chardonnay with complex aromatics rather than a monolithic fruit or butter bomb.

The Winemaker's Chardonnay Philosophy

1. The Strategic Shift: Balancing Floral & Flint

The winemaker initiated a fundamental shift around 2014-2015 to introduce more floral character into the Chardonnays, balancing the wine's natural "flinty" quality.

• Mechanism: Increased use of specific clones, particularly Spring Mountain and Clone 809, to about 40-50% of the blend.

  • The '23 vintage contains 46% of these clones.

  • The '12 vintage contained 40%.

• Observation: These clones introduce floral terpenes, which provide a desirable "top note." However, these compounds are volatile and tend to dissipate after a couple of years, at which point the wine evolves to express honeyed, poached pear, and baked apple pie characteristics.

2. Operational Discipline: Acidity and Alcohol Control

To achieve a desired structural profile, the winemaking process was adjusted to prioritize acidity over ripeness.

• Tactic: Grapes are now picked earlier, at lower sugar levels (mid to high 22 Brix, with 23.5 Brix considered very ripe).

• Rationale: This method naturally preserves higher acidity and results in lower final alcohol, creating a more structured, Chablis-inspired (though not replicable) profile. The winemaker is not opposed to acid additions in warmer years if necessary.

3. The Anti-Butter Stance: Managing Diacetyl

A core tenet is the intentional avoidance of a dominant buttery character, a flavor associated with the compound diacetyl from malolactic (ML) fermentation.

• Yeast Selection: The process uses ML strains that are low producers of diacetyl.

• Aging Technique: The wine is aged sur lie (on the lees), with battonage (stirring) performed once a month. The live yeast in the lees actively breaks down any diacetyl present, reducing the buttery notes and enhancing richness.

• Desired Profile: The goal is a subtle butterscotch element that may emerge with age, not an upfront, "super buttery" profile upon release.

4. The Yeast Dialectic: Native vs. Inoculated

The winemaker employs a hybrid yeast strategy to build complexity, moving away from a previous 100% native yeast protocol.

• Native Yeast (Thesis): Contributes more mouthfeel (glycerol) and savory, less fruit-forward notes. Currently makes up about 25% of the fermentation, with this percentage trending upwards.

• Inoculated Yeast (Antithesis): Can produce brighter, more pronounced fruit notes (apple, pear, citrus) but can also be "monolithic." To counter this, a blend of 3-4 different inoculated strains is used.

• Synthesis (Current Practice): A blended approach leverages the strengths of both. The winemaker understands that yeast doesn't create flavors from nothing; it transforms precursor compounds already present in the grapes, which are heavily influenced by viticultural factors like sun exposure.

Next Move

@Speaker_1 (Greg):

• Provide the exact percentage of native yeast used in the '23 and '24 Chardonnay vintages to AC - [TBD]

• Investigate and taste the "Arché" Chardonnay from Montague County, Texas, as recommended by Andrew - [TBD]