WINE REVIEW: Whitehall Lane 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Rutherford, Napa Valley, CA ($30)

by Andrew Chalk

This is a stylish wine that took advantage of what some people called the “vintage of the century” to produce a bold, Graves-style expression encompassing the traditional minority semillon (19%) and the majority sauvignon blanc (81%). 

THE VINTAGE

The winery describes the vintage thus:

“The 2023 vintage is being hailed the “vintage of a lifetime”. Winter and Spring brought roughly forty inches of rain, which provided a boost for Napa Valley. This vintage moved California out of a drought and into a good position for years to come. Budbreak arrived 2 weeks later than 2022 due to the spring rain events. The moisture in the soil led to a perfect bloom (flowering) condition in the vineyard. As a result, the vines provided a nice, even crop with perfect fruit set for the grape clusters. Summer was moderately warm, allowing the grapes on the vine to develop slowly. Autumn had a few hot days that pushed the vines into perfect maturity, leading to a late harvest season. The consistent summer weather encouraged our Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes to ripen in early September”.

Winemaker Jason Moulton brings deep experience with these grapes to the involved process of making a house wine with something of a ‘house style’. The winery describes it:

WINEMAKING

“Whitehall Lane is known for a Bordeaux style, fruit-forward and crisp Sauvignon Blanc. A majority of the fruit used for this wine was whole-cluster pressed. A small portion of the fruit was destemmed and pumped as whole berries directly into the tank for 18 hours of grape skin contact. This process creates a big, fleshy mid-palate weight to enhance the wine. Before fermentation, a portion of the Sauvignon Blanc juice underwent cold stabulation (chilling at 40 F) for 8 days, increasing the texture and aromatics. 75% of the fruit was cool fermented in stainless steel tanks while 25% was fermented in French oak barrels (10% new, 15% neutral). Native yeast fermentation took place in barrel, with sur lies (on the lees) and battonage (stirring) for four months. All these winemaking techniques create a unique Sauvignon Blanc with enhanced flavors and aromas, while offering a bold, round mid-palate and long, lingering finish.”

TASTING NOTES

Light gold color belies a forward nose encompassing citrus fruit, lemon and lime, and peach notes to the fore. Yellow apple notes flesh out the nose. The dominant aspect on the palate is the weight of this wine, which has enough body to barge other flavors around. On the palate the acid gives a lively take and the fruit confirms the nose, but adds apple tart and brioche as well. 

The precise winemaking means that this sauvignon blanc maintains the raciness of a good Bordeaux and the fruit of New Zealand with the result that it has a style all of its own.

Enjoy now, with summer hors d’oeuvres and appetizers, especially seafood.

Sample