Wine Review: Some Recent Davis Bynum Wines

by Andrew Chalk

I recently had a chance to meet Davis Bynum winemaker Greg Morthole who took me through a tasting of some of his wines. They are better than ever, comprising Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes from numerous vineyards in Sonoma County. 

Chardonnay 

First up, two vintages of their Chardonnay. The Davis Bynum 2023 Chardonnay ‘River West Vineyard’, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, CA ($24). And the Davis Bynum 2024 Chardonnay ‘River West Vineyard’, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, CA ($24). 

Both are in the New World style pioneered in California, meaning barrel aging in French Oak (in this case some Eastern European oak barrels were also used) with a significant proportion of that new oak (32% in this case).

The 2023 vintage was very wet, the main effect of which was delay. Delay in harvesting (in October, a month later than usual), delay in each stage of production post-harvest. Ultimately, the results are impressive. The 2023 has a nose of vibrant tropical fruit (mango), citrus elements of lemon, and golden apple. The flavors echo the citrus but also contain vanilla from the new oak and a dash of hazelnuts.

The 2024 is a more fruity wine, possibly reflecting its youth advantage.

Both wines are best enjoyed now. I would pair either with pasta and any variation of an Italian white sauce, poultry, gently-cooked white-flesh fish, or shrimp.

Pinot Noir

Davis Bynum 2023 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, CA ($24) and Davis Bynum 2024 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, CA ($24) are the winery’s workhorse Pinot Noir wines. They are perennially reliable examples of the Pinot Noir grape in the Russian River Valley. Gushing ripe fruit in the nose and mouth. Velvety tannins. Just enough wood to embrace this big, effusive mass with the reassuring aromas and flavors of oak. Russian River Pinot is one of the most consistent wine styles in the world and one of many sources of its popularity.

These fine examples will age if you wish, but the de minimis vintage variation would exhort one to drink now with almost any

red meat, veal, or for the avant-garde among diners -- salmon. These two have the lightness for the latter to work.

Moving to more selective sourcing, Davis Bynum makes Pinot Noir from the plots of the famous Dutton Ranch Vineyard.  We tasted the Davis Bynum 2022 Pinot Noir ‘Dutton Ranch’, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, CA ($65) and the Davis Bynum 2023 Pinot Noir ‘Dutton Ranch’, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, CA ($70). Bolder and more complex than the two preceding wines. The 2022 really benefits from the extra age and as my favorite red wine of this showing. Clearly Greg Morthole gets more scope to work with the Dutton Ranch labels and it shows.

Samples.