WINE REVIEW: Smith-Madrone 2017 Riesling, Estate Bottled, Napa Valley, Spring Mtn. District ($33)
by Andrew Chalk
Thirty years ago, Riesling in Napa Valley was not uncommon. Even Robert Mondavi Winery grew a Johannisberg Riesling. Over time, most of the vines were replaced with cabernet sauvignon, which sold for a lot more money.
Smith-Madrone doesn’t think like that. They are totally unimpressionable, going their own way without regard to fashion. Hence they kept their Napa riesling grapes, even selling them as a vertical pack of six vintages.
Appearance: Light straw;
Nose: Petrol, pineapple, grapefruit.
Palate: Mouth-filling fruit. Varietally correct. Minerally background.