WINE REVIEW: Poliziano 2018 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, DOCG, Italy ($30)
by Andrew Chalk
Vino Nobile DI Montepulciano is one of two hilltop towns in Tuscany making Sangiovese-based wines that are granted the DOCG quality designation. The other is Brunello di Montalcino. Market prices and reviewer opinion confirms that the latter is the more highly regarded of the two. That tends to make Vino Nobile a good value, something that is evident in this case. We recommend this wine and other Vino Nobile wines as good examples of Tuscan red wines.
Poliziano, which was founded in 1961 by Dino Carletti and since 1980 has been helmed by Dino’s son Federico with recent support from his children Maria Stella and Francesco, is one of the finest and most dynamic wineries in Montepulciano. Situated at the center of the commune of Montepulciano in southeastern Tuscany, Federico has worked tirelessly to achieve perfection with as little intervention as possible. Over the years, he eliminated less favorably positioned sites and replanted where the soil and climate were optimal. The selection of clones—many from the estate’s own original plant material—the planting layouts, rootstock choices, pruning methods and training systems are all meticulously chosen.
Revered by nobility through the centuries, Vino Nobile was hailed as "the wine of kings." Today, Vino Noble is still considered to be special, thanks to the Prugnolo Gentile clone of Sangiovese that is grown in the Montepulciano area. Poliziano uses 85% Prugnolo Gentile, also known as Sangiovese Grosso in their blend, along with two traditional Tuscan varieties, Colorino and Canaiolo, and a bit of Merlot. The complementary varieties add color, depth, and complexity to the elegance of the Sangiovese.
Appearance: Translucent ruby yielding to garnet at the edges;
Nose: Forward fruit and wood, forest floor, rosemary, rose blossom;
Palate: Rich raspberry, coffee, black pepper, cedar;