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WINE REVIEW: Graham’s “20 year” Tawny Port, Portugal ($65)

by Andrew Chalk

The nutty, heartwarming style of tawny port intensifies with the age of the port. A week ago we reviewed a 10-year old (Dow’s). This week is the turn of Graham’s 20-year. Since tawny is a blend of ports of different ages and, in the case of 20-year tawny, the youngest component is 20 years old, it tends to be a very complex drink that warrants slow sipping over conversation during and after dessert.

Real enjoyment involves just a small glass, so a bottle can be shared with many people. The high sugar and alcohol levels mean that port does not oxidize with air as quickly as table wine after being opened so long as you pop back the stopper and store it in the fridge. ln fact, it will keep many months like that. It will, that is, so long as you can resist it.




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