WINE REVIEW: Domaine Wardy 2017 Obeidi, Bekaa Valley ($25)
by Andrew Chalk
What is the best wine made of the obeidi grape that you have had? For me it is easy as this is the only one. Ironic, since I first had a wine from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley back in the last century. That was a red from Château Musar, which has gone on to greater and greater world renown. Obeidi seems to have languished in oblivion.
Regardless of labels, let’s judge it on the tasting notes. It is a straw color with just a hint of gold. The nose has notes of wet stones but is really rather neutral. The muscat character noted in the wines from other producers isn’t detectable here. The character on the palate is more promising and memorable. Beautiful acid level (contrary to a common preconception), hints of honey and citric notes.
Judge this wine as you would something like muscadet. It is not measured by fruit, or by heft. It has a subtle attractiveness that is confined to a limited range of pairings. Pair this with shellfish, fish, even with cream sauces, and white sauce pasta dishes.
However, $25 is twice the retail price of the average wine in the US market so consider this wine as fully-priced. There is a lot of choice at that level.