WHY MIONETTO IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE PROSECCO PRODUCERS
by Andrew Chalk
I just tasted the mid-tier Prosecco DOC Treviso Brut that sells for around $13. Its nose is apples and honey, and its dryness in the mouth means that it comes over as crisp and fresh. At 11% alcohol it is light enough to be enjoyed for celebrations, although it not unfriendly to food. I tasted it with appetizers of dried prunes wrapped with prosciutto (a kind of Italian ‘Devil on Horseback’). What a compellingly tasty combination.
However, Mionetto produces a whole range, known as the Luxury Collection, that pushes the range of expression of Prosecco upwards to greater intensity, complexity, and fulfillment. Prices edge into those of Champagne as well, although the two wines retain very different and distinctive styles.
The Luxury Collection is instantly recognizable by the imposing black bottles that each wine comes in. The livery is completed by an all-black capsule embossed with brand signage. All (or nearly all) printing is in a sans serif block style using white ink directly on the glass. It is with that impressive imprimatur that the branding guy tosses the bottles over the waterfall to be picked up by the winemaker and viticulturist.
The winemaker and viticulturist have made choices as different as did the branding folks. They sourced the grapes not from the entire Prosecco production area but from a small area near the center, on the hills, where low yields, good drainage, and precise aspect to the sun make for better grapes. They even gave it an unpronounceable name Valdobbiadene. The area is not the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) of the earlier wine, but a DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), a stricter growing and production regimen. The wines are also entitled to call themselves Prosecco Superiore, a controlled name denoting higher growing and production standards within the DOCG certification.
Try any of these and you will be experiencing the tip of the spear in terms of Prosecco quality. Each of the four wines in the lineup has their own character, but each is a separate, unique expression.
That is why I like Mionetto. They take Prosecco very seriously. They explore the type more than most Prosecco houses They should keep doing that. If you see their wines on the retail shelves, grab one. It will not be the last time that you do.