Tasting a Selection of Caymus Wines

by Andrew Chalk

World famous for their Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, Caymus Vineyards has expanded its winemaking to embrace other grapes, areas of California, and wine types. Nowhere was this more on display than at a recent tasting at Fort Worth’s luxury Crescent Hotel (more about the hotel here) where I attended as a media guest.

We started with Emmolo 2025 Sauvignon Blanc ($25). Grapes hail from Solano County (67%), Lake County (20%), and Napa County (13%). Perhaps most interesting is that the winemaker at Emmolo is Caymus founder Chuck Wagner’s oldest daughter Jenny Wagner. With this wine she set out to customize the traditional profile of Sauvignon Blanc in keeping the crispness and citrus fruit, but reducing the herbal component of the nose. She succeeds, and I expect the result will prove popular with American wine drinkers.

On to reds. First, the Caymus 2023 California Cabernet Sauvignon ($55). A Cabernet Sauvignon from all over California rather than just from Napa. It fits a price point more modest than the flagship Cabernet Sauvignon.

Next, the flagship Caymus Vineyards 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($100). Chuck Wagner’s price and joy and my favorite wine of the tasting. Lots of complex fruit on a lavish French oak foundation. This wine has structure and flavor for the sophisticated palate. 

Finally, the most interesting wine of the night. A sparkling wine, and one made with the Champagne method from the classic Champagne grapes - two thirds Chardonnay and one third Pinot Noir. Emmolo Methode Traditionelle Sparkling Wine ($35) has the fine bead of a Champagne. The 38 months on lees projects a nose of bready yeast. I would like Jenny to consider doing a réserve that fortifies the incipient autolysed components and maxed the bread yeast. TBD.