Never Underestimate the Ability of The French Wine Industry To Innovate

by Andrew Chalk

There is a widespread, but seriously inaccurate, image of the French wine industry as being slow to change, hidebound, and introverted. “They still use corks” might characterize the view, at a time where screwcaps are ubiquitous on Australian and New Zealand wines, and spreading elsewhere.. 

Over 20+ visits to winegrowers in France have convinced me that this view is wrong. A closer statement would be that they rightly, and justifiably, celebrate their successes in viticulture and winemaking, and-there-are-so-many, but can ‘flip on a centime’ when a  sea change requires it.  

A trader in French wine reminded me of this recently. She wrote “As wine preferences continue to shift toward lighter, fresher, and more experience-driven styles, a new wave of French wines is gaining traction—highlighting lesser-known appellations, lower-alcohol options, and versatile bottles designed for how people are drinking today.”

Examples of the new styles that she promulgated:

• Menetou-Salon as a Sancerre alternativeFrom the Loire Valley, Joseph Mellot’s Menetou-Salon offers a crisp, citrus-driven profile with signature minerality—an increasingly востребован option for sommeliers looking to introduce guests to something familiar yet new.

  
  

• Grower-style Champagne with a sense of placeChampagne Mandois reflects the shift toward smaller, family-led houses, with wines that emphasize vineyard character, balance, and food-friendly structure.

  
  

• Lower-ABV, easy-drinking whitesFrom Southwest France, Domaine Tariquet’s Classic is a go-to example—fresh, aromatic, and typically around 10.5–11.5% ABV, making it a natural fit for consumers seeking lighter options.

• AOP Languedoc rosé rooted in experienceFrom Maison Lorgeril, Ô de Rosé captures the shift toward lifestyle-driven wines—lighter, fresher, and made for real moments. Crafted from Grenache, Syrah, and Viognier, it's ideal for everything from Mother’s Day brunch to al fresco gatherings.

  
  

I was fortunate enough to try some of these alternatives and I agree. The diversity and expertise in French wine is one of the industry’s greatest strengths. All of the wines I tried were powerful statements in their own right, as well as substitutes for an earlier era.

Old vs. New vs Old. Concrete eggs vs. oak barrels at Maison Lorgeril

Samples.