Impression: TAYTA - A Welcome Peruvian (But Get Rid of the $25 Corkage)

by Andrew Chalk

It started badly. Our assigned table at Tayta was right underneath an air conditioner salvaged from a wind tunnel. We asked to move to a window seat, but there the blind was stuck up so the evening sun shone right in our faces. Plus, the air conditioner from hell could still reach us.

Some blind ambition from the owner and the sun problem was solved. Then, I turned to confirming that we could bring our own wine. Our waitress checked and the answer was “Yes, the corkage is $25”. By way of context, Commander’s Palace (around $400 for two) is only $40, and I have never heard of a place in Dallas that charged as much as $25. Jade Garden (RIP) asked $10 in 2010 and a table of four of us walked out, straight down to Sakhuu where the $1 corkage included a leaded glass crystal tumbler from Libbey (at least, I think it leaded glass crystal). 

A corkage charge should be sufficient to prevent BYOB cannibalizing wine sales. At Tayta they may have underthought the problem. The extensive wine list has…two choices. The famous names Vino Tinto ($9) and Vino Blanco ($7). No messing with such fine points as brands or vintages. 

That is actually a real pity. The red wine is a stellar bargain from Argentina .Amalaya 2024 Malbec, Salta, Argentina. It was all over town in May when I was there [Ed.: What a name-dropper. Next he’ll invoke the name of some famous chef]. It is a bargain at $9 here, and see if you can buy a bottle of it at retail as well. Leaving the name off the menu is likely costing sales.

No matter where you sit, the seats were rejected for comfort by Frontier Airlines. Maybe bring your own Llama coat to get by.

 Causa de Pollo a la Brasa ($14)

Get through these, possibly crippling, problems and there is a rainbow on the other side. My Causa de Pollo a la Brasa ($14) was the best I have had. Soft mashed yellow potato with yellow chili pepper and lime divided by a layer of roasted chicken and mayonnaise with avocado and vegetables, But look at the topping! Beads of mayonnaise, capers and carrots all dollied up like a cupcake. This food is photogenic like it came from Kent Rathbun. I mean, look at the picture! Just one criticism: the potato needed more seasoning (salt, in this case, to levitate it as causa is prone to monotony) and I wonder if a shot of pickle juice wouldn't causamax it?

Parihuela ($20),

For my main course I went with the Parihuela ($20), a spicy traditional Peruvian seafood soup that appears to be loosely built around a roux and loaded with the chef’s choice of seafood. This example had squid rings, whole shrimp, mussels on the half shell, a fish (basa?) and a green vegetable resembling, figuratively and literally, seaweed. It has to be said that you would be hard put to find a restaurant invoking something as ritualistically valid as this in Dallas. With the evening temperature outside dropping from 107℉ to a balmy 98℉ this was the ideal cold weather heartwarmer. Rich, umami laden, and spicy. It comes recommended. 

Chicharrón de Chancho ($13)

The moll started with Chicharrón de Chancho ($13), pork rind fried until the edge was tough enough to deflect missiles on the Ukrainian front line, yucca fried crisp on the outside and left squishy on the inside, and sara criolla, a Peruvian onion relish that adds a zest to the dish. It is great to see yucca used ‘because it should be’ and not substituted by potatoes.

Arroz Chaufa de Mariscos ($18)

Then she followed with Arroz Chaufa de Mariscos ($18) an approachable rice and seafood blend that was paella adjacent, but for the use of Chinese onion and eggs.

Vino Tinto

Helpings were enough for us to take boxes home for our ever-expanding dog. And we passed on the indulgent desserts on offer for the same reason. 

I could go on about the sweet-potato chips and home-made sauces spicy enough to invoke an erection on a 85-year old priest. Were the chips home-made as well? And the Chinese-Peruvian fusion part of the menu. The latter will have to wait until next time. 

I could also say, get a reason to stop me BYOBing by getting a mixed drinks license so that you can serve me the almighty pisco sour.

I should mention that the waitress service, from Merilyn, was friendly and attentive. 

But all that aside, Tayta turned out to be a discovery. A welcome addition to the Richardon restaurantscape. I look forward to returning.  

FCC Disclosure: I paid for everything out of my own pocket and dined anonymously.