by Andrew Chalk
Head to San Antonio’s Omni La Mansion Del Rio hotel and its marquee restaurant Four Brothers for solid and recognizable Southern cuisine with a Texas accent. Take a seat either on the patio adjacent to the famed Riverwalk or inside, amid southern Texas decor.
At a media event last week, true to the spirit of the room, I started with San Antonio “Chili Queens” Chili ($15), listed under ‘Groundwork’ (Appetizers) on the menu but substantial enough to feed the Sixth Fleet. The symbiosis of the Wagyu beef and melting aged cheddar, periodically given a tang by intermittent dollops of sour cream, was homely and attractive.
The entrées are an impressive bunch as well. The Texas Trinity of Filet, Ribeye, and Prime New York Strip steaks lead the charge. But carnivores can also trip on Lamb Shank, Duck Breast, and a Double-Cut Bone-In Pork Chop that chef Andres Farias told me was his favorite.
My chosen dessert was Buttermilk Pie “The Last Piece” ($14) a creation of bourbon caramel, buttermilk ice cream, and topped with a kind of gauze cover of sugar.
I started with a margarita (my kind of unimaginative man’s homage to San Antonio). With the meal from the modest wine list I enjoyed a Catena Malbec ‘Vista Flores’ ($15) a product of the Mendoza region of Argentina.
Four Brothers is a solid choice, with good service, and, of course, that great location of being in the Omni La Mansion Del Rio in prime Riverwalk territory.
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