Chez Maggy, Denver. Upscale, But Approachable
- andychalk
- Sep 22
- 3 min read
by Andrew Chalk
Chez Maggy, the halo restaurant at Denver’s Michelin-recognized Thompson hotel is turning out some really innovative dishes. We went for a dinner media event but breakfast, lunch, brunch, and happy hour are also served.
Presumably, the consulting connection with TV chef Ludo Lefebvre played a role here. I first came across Ludo on The Taste, an Anthony Bourdain helmed ABC attempt to move the cooking craze on Food Network into network primetime. Ludo introduced a guest (heavy French accent omitted):
“Please introduce yourself”
“My name is Don Pullum, and I am a winemaker from Mason, Texas”
“Texas! I did not know there was any wine from Texas.”
Don (RIP), actually made national-quality wine but, like too many Texas winemakers, expected the quality to sell itself. This dialog illustrates the case. As soon as the episode had finished, I called Calais-born Texas winemaker Ben Calais and exhorted him to send Ludo a selection of his wines with a note written in his native tongue (the latter possibly, en confit). He never did. He wasn’t even excited by the thought of Ludo’s face on receiving them.
Ludo was generally kind to Don and so he seems to have been to Chez Maggy. What he has done especially well is take the familiar and supercharged it to be a fine addition to the menu of an upscale restaurant (likely with Michelin pretensions to match those of the hotel). A case in point, Chicken Cordon Bleu ($29) is a familiar staple but it is expressed here as a starlet, dressed to the nines. Involved are broccolini pistou, truffle cheese sauce, and Madrange ham. There is no reason not to order it when it is, maybe, the best expression of what it can be.
By the way, the menu says mandrange ham, but so does Amazon.Typos loves company.
Generally, the menu won’t scare the mainstream American palate. One exception which may cause quivering but I urge you to try, is the appetizer Crab Toast ($18). I had never had this before but The Moll, who hails from East Asia, was familiar with it from that cuisine. Ludo does it his own way, mounting the blue crab, and shrimp mousse on a square of rich brioche bread. Then the whole thing is baked, producing a synergy of those primary flavors - crab, shrimp, and brioche. And served in a piquant Thai vinaigrette that lights up the mouth. The helping is actually quite large, for a starter, and couples may want to split one. Either way, a white or rosé, or a sparkling wine, of sufficient acid and body would complement it well. Ask the waitstaff for advice as the selection varies.
Salad aficionados should consider the Beet Salad ($14). Red and golden beets merge delicately with crème fraîche , pistachios, almonds, and red wine dressing. Beet and cream are a classic synergy move and the addition of texture through the nuts is a welcome enhancement here.
Colorado may produce the best lamb in the country so I was looking for it on my visit. What luck, Pressed Lamb Shoulder ($36) fit the bill. The lamb is cut to rillette-sized strips and then pressed back into a rectangle (Ludo loves rectangles) and plated on ratatouille with cubes of what look like potato, but are in fact the Marsellais specialty panisse, made from chickpeas and cooked to a crisp exterior and custardy interior. They have a deeply characterful flavor and served in a teasingly small number here!
Our selections don’t nearly exhaust what is on the menu at Chez Maggy. At a nearby table, a burly gentleman was defeated by the architecturally imposing Chez Maggy Burger ($22). Made with American cheese, pepper gravy, pickled mustard seed, smoked mayonnaise, beer braised onion and thin fries. He left with a lot of the fries untouched (although he scarfed down the burger).
We had to politely decline dessert due to capacity limitations, but do look into the soufflés which are popular.
Also mentionable, the baguette with Loire butter is to be accepted when offered.
Service here is warm, professional, and knowledgeable on the menu. Helpful when making choices.
Set in the ground floor of the Thompson Hotel, occupying the 16th-street side, there is a broad view out onto street life and, now, tables outside to take advantage of warm weather. Check out Chez Maggy, I think you will like what is happening here.
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