A Week With South African Wine - Tuesday: The Cabernet Sauvignons

by Andrew Chalk

Yesterday, I wrote…

I have been impressed by South African wines pretty much from my first contact with them. Nowadays they reflect expert winemaking, a God-given climate for grape growing, and good value. Recently, I was acquainted with another of the seemingly endless cast of small, family-run wineries in South Africa when the estimable John Gorman of Southern Starz wrote to me and said, "Oy! You have to try the wines of David Finlayson."

"David Finlayson?" I said. "What is his background?"

"Time at Château Margaux. Winemaker at Glen Carlou — their Chardonnay is the single most successful Chardonnay in South Africa. Long, consistent history, of course," replied Gorman.

I was intrigued, and waited with anticipation to taste the wines.

Finlayson makes a broad selection of red and white wines so to give them the attention that each deserves I have split them into smaller ‘sub-flights’. 

Today it is the turn of the Cabernet Sauvignons. There are two,     

The regular offering

David Finlayson 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa ($22)

An inky monster written in a ruby hue. On the nose, hints of green pepper flit around as though teasing the senses. Hints of baking spice, cedar, blackberry, black plum and goût de terre. In the mouth, immensely chewy tannins, fresh blackberry fruit, and prominent cedar. The medium-long, delicious finish is driven by herbal notes.  

This is a strong contender in the twenty-dollar category. 

And the ‘reserve’, so to speak

David Finlayson ‘GS’ 2021, Stellenbosch, South Africa ($56)

Take the regular Cabernet and double-down. A more murky color, totally opaque. A nkosec wound tighter than you thought matter could take. The pyrazines (green pepper) are more prominent. Bay leaf and sage give a herbal accent to the nose. In the mouth, the fruit is more effusive and powerful than the regular bottling. But also very fresh for five years of age. In the mouth the ripe tannins are chewy and dominant. Raspberries and blackberries dominate the fruit. The herbal notes of the nose carry over, leading to a very balanced wine that is a pleasure to sip slowly. 

I would keep for a few more years for maximum enjoyment. However, with fatty steak cuts like ribeye and picanha this wine is drinking well now.

Buy here.

Sample.