A Week With South African Wine - Thursday: The Chenin Blanc

by Andrew Chalk

Yesterday I wrote…

I have been impressed by South African wines pretty much from my first contact with them. Nowadays they reflect expert winemaking, a God-given climate for grape growing, and good value. Recently, I was acquainted with another of the seemingly endless cast of small, family-run wineries in South Africa when the estimable John Gorman of Southern Starz wrote to me and said, "Oy! You have to try the wines of David Finlayson."

"David Finlayson?" I said. "What is his background?"

"Time at Château Margaux. Winemaker at Glen Carlou — their Chardonnay is the single most successful Chardonnay in South Africa. Long, consistent history, of course," replied Gorman.

I was intrigued, and waited with anticipation to taste the wines.

Finlayson makes a broad selection of red and white wines so to give them the attention that each deserves I have split them into smaller ‘sub-flights’. 

Today it is the turn of the Chenin Blanc.   

David Finlayson 2023 ‘Camino Africana’ Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa ($20)

Conventional wisdom sees the Chenin blanc grape being made in a French dry, crisp style popularized in the Loire region, and in a more fruity, less acidic, style in the New World. But devotees of the grape acknowledge a distinct South Africa style as well. The problem has been that, outside its production areas, Chenin Blanc is such a niche variety that South African producers, with an eye to the American market, have taken to spring the New World style in a pursuit of sales success by me-too winemaking. 

Thankfully, some have not. And the South African version of ‘Steen’ as it is colloquially known there, continues to be preserved.

This wine is a poster child to that tradition and I recommend all students of wine certifications, lovers of interesting wines, and winemakers try it to experience it. 

The acid is elevated, as in the French style. The citrus notes of lemon are well represented. There is a salinity, not unlike Albarino, and a phenolic line in the mouthfeel like a good Chardonnay. Complex but appealing, it is best drunk now. I did so with the FIFA World Cup, but you could try any white flesh fish, e.g. Dover sole, or cod or juicy chicken dishes. E.g. roast or lemon chicken.    

Finally, this wine is an excellent value. It can be your marquee white wine, standing in for Burgundy or Sonoma, at a fraction of the price. And, winemakers, can you make a chenin blanc in this style?

Buy here.

Sample.