by Andrew Chalk
Oregon's pinot noir is already known worldwide. However, the state has more than that going on. Chardonnay has been grown in the state for a long time but has not received the same acclaim. One respected Oregon winemaker told me two decades ago that early chardonnay plantings had problems because they were the wrong clone. The Wente clone produced fantastic results in California, but did not transfer well to the Oregon terroir. French clones (e.g. the Dijon clone) have proven much more successful.
Today, Oregon winegrowers bring mature vineyards and years of experience to chardonnay and news of the results is getting out. Recently, I tasted four examples and came away impressed, not just with the quality of the wine but the spirit of independence of the winemakers. The results were a style of wine that is not a Xerox of the heavily oaked, heavily extracted, ripe New World style that is so widespread. I like that style, but what I like even more is choice, and these growers offer part of that fabric.
NAME: | Chehalem 2021 Chardonnay Reserve, Estate Grown, Dundee Hills, Oregon |
APPEARANCE | |
Clarity | clear |
Intensity | medium |
Color | lemon-green |
Other observations | |
NOSE | |
Condition | clean |
Intensity | medium |
Aroma characteristics | mayer lemon, lime, pineapple, golden apples, oregano |
PALATE | |
Sweetness | dry |
Acidity | medium plus |
Tannin | |
Alcohol | medium |
Body | medium |
Flavour intensity | medium plus |
Flavour characteristics | Fruit in nose confirmed. Chewy body due to impressive phenolic backbone. Graham crackers. Malo may not be 100% Oak is muted |
Other observations | |
Finish | Finish of citrus fruit lingers. |
CONCLUSION | |
Quality assessment | Very good quality. Especially notable is the winemaker's readiness to break with conventiion and restrain the use of oak and, I believe, malolactic fermentation, for a wine that is very good but in a singular way, without leaving any doubt that it is chardonnay. |
Bottle ageing | Suitable |
NAME: | Duck Pond 2022 Chardonnay Coles Valley Vineyard, Umqua Valley, Oregon |
APPEARANCE | |
Clarity | clear |
Intensity | medium |
Color | lemon-green |
Other observations | |
NOSE | |
Condition | clean |
Intensity | medium minus |
Aroma characteristics | Lime, green apples, peach stones, hints of oak, brioche; |
PALATE | |
Sweetness | dry |
Acidity | medium plus |
Tannin | |
Alcohol | medium |
Body | medium plus |
Flavour intensity | medium plus |
Flavour characteristics | Fruit in nose confirmed. Phenolic background. Fruit not as ripe as Chahalem. |
Other observations | |
Finish | Medium and fruit-led; |
CONCLUSION | |
Quality assessment | Very good. All elements in balance. Short of oustanding due to the intensity of the elements, especially fruit. |
Bottle ageing | Suitable |
NAME: | Stoller Family Statement 2021 Chardonnay Reserve, Estate Grown, Dundee Hills, Oregon |
APPEARANCE | |
Clarity | clear |
Intensity | medium |
Color | lemon-green |
Other observations | |
NOSE | |
Condition | clean |
Intensity | medium |
Aroma characteristics | Lime, peach stone fruit, green apples. Somewhat closed. |
PALATE | |
Sweetness | dry |
Acidity | medium plus |
Tannin | |
Alcohol | medium |
Body | medium plus |
Flavour intensity | medium |
Flavour characteristics | Deeply chewy texture, impressive minerality. Would like more power to the components; |
Other observations | |
Finish | short |
CONCLUSION | |
Quality assessment | Good. To be higher the fruit needs more power. The balance is this wine's most compelling feature. |
Bottle ageing | Not suitable |
NAME: | Van Duzer 2021 Chardonnay, Estate, Van Duzer Corridor, Oregon |
APPEARANCE | |
Clarity | clear |
Intensity | medium |
Color | lemon-green |
Other observations | |
NOSE | |
Condition | clean |
Intensity | medium plus |
Aroma characteristics | Lemon, yeast, green apple, oregano. Mango. |
PALATE | |
Sweetness | dry |
Acidity | medium plus |
Tannin | |
Alcohol | medium |
Body | medium |
Flavour intensity | medium plus |
Flavour characteristics | Yeast character more pronounced than in the other wines here. Fruit is ripe and mango more prevalent on the palate than in the nose. |
Other observations | |
Finish | short |
CONCLUSION | |
Quality assessmediument | good. Presents a more mature demeanor than the other wines with secondary flavors. Oak very reserved. |
Bottle ageing | Suitable. |
Sample.