WINE REVIEW: Rustic Spur Vineyards, 2017 Souzão, Est. Grown, ‘Papaw Moyer’, Texas Hill Country ($48)
by Andrew Chalk
Rustic Spur Vineyards, a new vineyard that can be hard to find due to their sometimes branding themselves as Vintners Hideaway (their store in downtown Fredericksburg, which also sells wine from other small Texas wineries) has added winemaking to their repertoire. They previously only sold grapes to others.
One of their more interesting grapes is the Portuguese variety, Souzão. It is firmly in the Tannat, Toriga Nacional tradition of densely pigmented red grapes. The opaque purple hues lead to a ripe nose of blackberry jam and rosemary herbs. In the mouth the fruit is leaner than the nose might lead you to expect but the finish is long and heartwarming.