by Andrew Chalk
This is the kind of wine that could only come from Italy. The nose contains violets, raspberries, and spices. The mouthfeel displays elevated acid and a chunkiness of texture that projects dry fruit and oak ageing. However, it then releases forward ripe fruit that evolves into a long, warm finish.
All this from a grape, Ruchè, that has only about 350 acres planted, mainly in Piedmont. A decade ago it was almost extinct. Although the origins of the grape are disputed, there is no doubt that it is distinctively different from all mainstream grapes found today. I am surprised that it does not have a cult following that pushes the price up substantially, so consider this wine a bargain.
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