by Andrew Chalk
That question was the subject of a recent article in mashed, a blog that modestly describes itself as “the ultimate destination for all things food”. The article went on to discuss all things box, without ever answering its original question.
The answer is the same as it has always been. Box wine has not overcome its stigma for pedestrian quality. What would be necessary to change that? Some halo wines packaging their flagship products in box, as well as glass.
For example, consider the venerated bastion of tradition, Château Léoville-Barton, a classified red Bordeaux wine from Saint-Julien which is priced at $89 for its latest (2020) vintage and scored an impressive 94/100 from a sample of critics. If it were to make itself available by bag, as well as by bottle, there would be an immediate feeding frenzy to buy each and compare them. If, indeed, the box had it then we could expect a slew of copycats in the next couple of vintages.
The basic point is that it will take a big dog wine to put its reputation on the line for box wine to shed its negative connotations.
Winemakers: Who will step up to the plate?